Two Actung Campervanners recently zipped across to Flinders Island, and were kind enough to supply us with the following documentation of their getaway.
Departure
We booked our Achtung Camper on the Matthew Flinders IV ferry, connecting Tasmania’s mainland to Flinders Island. Operated by Bass Strait Freight, this weekly ferry’s schedule is intricately tied to tides, especially in Bridport, where the estuary channel experiences significant fluctuations.
Our eight hour overnight journey to the island felt like a roller coaster in the unpredictable conditions of Bass Strait. However, the return trip a week later was a smooth sailing experience, highlighting the ferry’s responsiveness to tidal patterns and the dynamic nature of Bass Strait conditions. It really added an adventurous element to our transportation.
Despite Flinders Island’s relatively small dimensions, measuring only about 62km from north to south and 37km from east to west, its landscape is remarkably diverse. There’s ample opportunities for exploration. The topography is shaped by a granite mountain spine, which was once a land connection between Victoria and Tasmania.
In the small towns of Lady Barron and Whitemark, essential amenities such as general stores, supermarkets, and fuel outlets are readily available. Moreover, there are numerous restaurant and café options in both towns, adding to the local charm. The Council’s Information Office in Whitemark proved to be a valuable resource, offering assistance with detailed maps and informative brochures.
The world-class Furneaux Museum at Emita gives a fascinating insight into island community life and history. A particular highlight was the historical and contemporary display of stunning shell necklaces made by Aboriginal women. We were also lucky to see the fascinating travelling exhibition ‘Flying by the seat of their pants’ about pioneering aviation in Bass Strait from 1919 to 1939.
Although set in a beautiful location, the restored chapel at Wybalenna marks a sad time in our history, when Tasmanian Aboriginal people were relocated to Flinders Island in the 1830-40s. The isolation and harsh conditions resulted in many deaths and the abandonment of the settlement.
One of our main activities on the island was walking, with numerous unspoiled beaches to choose from. Some beaches feature endless stretches of sparkling sand and gentle waves that make walking easy, while others are strewn with vivid lichen-covered rocks to clamber over, but they are all beautiful.
The island unveils its surprising mountainous terrain, and one can enjoy breathtaking views from Walkers and Tanner Hill lookouts, both conveniently reachable by vehicle. This proved to be an excellent method for gaining our bearings and obtaining an overarching perspective of the entire island. From these vantage points, we observed that the eastern side of the island features relatively low-lying terrain adorned with a succession of lagoons.
Yet, our exploration took an interesting turn when we ventured along a rough, sandy track to Logan Lagoon. Despite the anticipation, we discovered that the tidal water and bird sanctuary were still a considerable distance away in the vast landscape. This journey provided a nuanced understanding of the island’s diverse geography, showcasing both its accessible viewpoints and the more remote, intriguing corners waiting to be explored.
First Camp
We camped at Trousers Point, explored Fortheringate Bay, and skipped Mt Strzelecki’s climb due to a sore knee. Other travellers praised the climb.
Second Camp
Our second camp was at Flinders Island Olives in Killiecrankie, offering a guided tour of the award-winning olive oil enterprise. Unlike national park sites with cold showers, this campground provides a wood-fired hot water shower!
Excitingly, Whitemark has a Saturday morning park run. Despite a sore knee, we walked the 5km course, spotting only one tiger snake. Flinders Island is known for them!
We mostly cooked, but occasionally enjoyed meals at cafes. Note limited hours; check in advance. We relished Saturday breakfast at Flinders Island Wharf and had a mid-week lunch at Cate Cooks in Whitemark. The Store in Lady Barron was our go-to for great coffee and chats with locals in a cosy atmosphere.
Flinders Island proved to be a great destination, with plenty to do and see. It set a high benchmark for the rest of our Tasmanian travels! To learn more about the island, click here.
Words by Christine and Graeme
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